BOOMBOX
Fashion Through The Ages
1950's
Teddy boys and girls: teds were one of the first subcultures to emerge from the generation named since the 1930s “teenagers”. They took stylistic inspiration from the slick formal looks of the Edwardian period, modernising them with statement items such as ‘creeper’ shoes. The outfit featured a long-line ‘drape’ jacket, bow-tie and shirt, and drainpipe trousers., with girls opting for similar trousers, nipped-waist shirts and neckties, or pouffy skirts. Ted gangs would roam the streets of cities such as London and Manchester in the 1950s and 60s, later having rivalry with new groups such as Mods. The 70s revival of the Ted movement coincided with the rise of fascism and the NF in the UK, and as such the movement became somewhat tainted by racist gangs. Contributing to their rebellious reputation, the soundtrack to Teds’ lives was provided by the burgeoning rock’n’roll scene, which was causing panic amongst the older generation. Key tracks include: Johnny B. Goode by Chuck Berry, Rock Around the Clock by Bill Haley and His Comets.
1960's
Mods: emerging in the 60s and influenced by new minimalist designs, mod men and women took fierce pride in looking their sharpest, with women not afraid to try out more androgynous looks, such as the cropped haircut of Twiggy, and men opting for a more feminine look, with brightly printed shirts. They were fierce rivals of the “rocker” subculture, an offshoot of Teds and the rock’n’roll music scene. Key Mod tracks include: “Dedicated Follower of Fashion” by the Kinks, “My Generation” by the Who, both Mod bands. Mods were also passionate about the “nothern soul” scene, which featured “all-nighters” in northern clubs such as the Wigan Casino, playing imported Motown records. Key nortern soul tracks include “Do I Love You (Indeed I Do)” by Frank Wilson and “Tainted Love” by Gloria Jones.
Late 1960's Early 1970's
Mods: emerging in the 60s and influenced by new minimalist designs, mod men and women took fierce pride in looking their sharpest, with women not afraid to try out more androgynous looks, such as the cropped haircut of Twiggy, and men opting for a more feminine look, with brightly printed shirts. They were fierce rivals of the “rocker” subculture, an offshoot of Teds and the rock’n’roll music scene. Key Mod tracks include: “Dedicated Follower of Fashion” by the Kinks, “My Generation” by the Who, both Mod bands. Mods were also passionate about the “nothern soul” scene, which featured “all-nighters” in northern clubs such as the Wigan Casino, playing imported Motown records. Key nortern soul tracks include “Do I Love You (Indeed I Do)” by Frank Wilson and “Tainted Love” by Gloria Jones.
Early and Mid 1970's
Glam/androgynous: the early mid/70s also saw the emergence of the glam rock seen, with artists such as T.Rex’s Marc Bolan and David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust at its fore. This look featured extravagant clothing, long, maybe coloured hair, platform shoes, and glitter and eyeshadow. So much glitter and eyeshadow. Although some teen boys and young men would scoff at the percceived femininity of such artists, others were strongly influenced by the look and employed certain features as a statement. Key tracks: “Jeepster” by T.Rex, “Suffragette City” by Ddavid Bowie.
Punk/Post-Punk 1976-79
Punk/post-punk 1976-79: Emerged from what was perceived as, both artistically and stylistically, a moribund world, the punk philosophy was to “rip it up and start again”. They rejected fashion, music and lifestyle norms of the day. Early punks such as John Lydon have stated that, fashion-wise, there are no rules in punk, as long as you rebel. This is evidenced by X-Ray Spex singer Poly Styrene, who wore trashy bubblegum second-hand wear. However, the stereotype which emerged of punk is of ripped clothes held together with safety pins, bondage wear, and leather, and provocative symbols such as the swastika. The post-punk look was austere, reflecting the mood of the time. Key punk tracks include “No Fun” – Sex Pistols (a cover of an Iggy Pop song) , “Boredom” by Buzzcocks, and a post-punk track is “Love Will Tear Us Apart” by Joy Division.
Late 70's Early 80's
Late 70s/early 80s: disco came over from America, featuring innovative synthesiser techniques and new dance moves (see John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever). The look featured light, bright colours such as white, heeled shoes and bell-bottoms. Key tracks: “I Feel Love” – Donna Summer, “Le Freak” – Chic.
1980's
1980s: the indie and goth scenes emerged, spurred on by the now established independent record labels which had been established in the punk-era. The music was many different things: electronic, guitar based, jangly, melancholic, uplifting, ethereal. The fashion reflected this diversity: indie artists experimented with unusual or “nerdy styles” e.g. Orange Juice’s Edwyn Collins wore sandals and socks, Morrissey opted for beads and oversized women’s shirts. Goths wore plenty of black, had backcombed or statement hair, and wore plenty of dark make-up. Key indie track: “this Charming Man” – The Smiths. Goth: “Hanging Garden” – The Cure.
